Inspired by the ingenious tribes of Baguio, we decided to go farther north and travel back in time to a place where a significant part of our past is still very much present. Vigan, the only surviving 16th century Spanish colonial town in the Philippines, is the capital city of Ilocos Sur. From Baguio, it is a comfortable 4-5-hour bus ride along the west coast of northern Luzon facing the South China Sea.
When we stepped out of the reliable Partas Bus, Vigan was cast in the romantic, almost eerie glow of twilight. The town’s smaller than I imagined. People move around via a kalesa or horse-drawn carriage, on a tricycle or by foot. I gathered it wouldn’t take more than a day to do the rounds of the city’s attractions. Vigan is so small and intimate, that in fact, even their retail buildings are on a first name basis like Linda’s Department Store or Mike’s Department Store.
On the way to our hotel, we caught a glimpse of Vigan’s Heritage Village, considered as one of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites. It was like a dream in sepia, straight out of a Noli Mi Tangere book. The whole village gives you a rustic and olden feel, from the cobblestoned streets, Asian-European architecture, down to the wooden balusters and Capiz shells that adorn the windows of probably more than a hundred ancestral Spanish houses.
As you listen to the clickety-clacks of horse drawn carriages and gaze at the old ventanillas, a compelling sense of history overwhelms you. Everything was so surreal. Where do we go, where do we start? I, for one, was feeling all too lost in time. This must have been what Dorothy felt like when she dropped in the Land of Oz. With this insight, I guess, there was only one sensible thing for us to do: just follow the old, weathered brick road!
So off we went to the world famous Heritage Village or Calle Crisologo, where we discovered some delightful things to do along the way:
1. Ride a kalesaTo conserve the nostalgic feel of the colonial street in Vigan, only horse-drawn carriages are allowed to enter and pass. For about 150 pesos per hour, you can tour Calle Crisologo, as well other parts of Vigan off the brick track. The good thing is the kalesa drivers are all trained by the local Department of Tourism and act as your local tourist guide. They know exactly the places you need to see. Some historical spots to visit are: the Bantay Church and Bell Tower; Governor Luis “Chavit” Singson’s Baluarte that features a mini zoo, skeet shooting range, pony rides and animal show; Plaza Burgos - dedicated to the memory of Father Jose Burgos, one of the three martyred Filipino priests (GOMBURZA) at Bagumbayan; and the Pagburnayan, where traditional Vigan jars (burnay) of varied shapes, designs and sizes are made. The kalesa tour usually culminates back to the main street of the Heritage Village, Calle Crisologo.
2. Take photos of the awesome architecture
The cobblestoned street of Calle Crisologo is said to stretch up to 1 km and is lined with colonial houses of affluent families that are picture-perfect with their blend of Chinese and European architectures. The houses look simple enough but are lovely nonetheless with their roofs of red tiles, brick walls, big doors, intricate grill and wood works, sliding capiz shell windows, and seemingly antique furniture that give you the feel of a 1572 ambience. Some of these ancestral houses have been turned into quaint hotels and inns. Even the restaurants and cafes at the Heritage Village are all Spanish-era themed.
3. Market, Market for pasalubongs
Some of the houses in Calle Crisologo are now used as souvenir shops selling items from “I heart Vigan” T-shirts to locally grown tobacco. Ilocanos appear to have a very strong sense of identity and respect for heritage. They have remained steadfast to their forebear’s time-honored crafts of burnay making (pottery) and inabel (hand loom weaving). With this, other great souvenir items to bring back home are coin purses made of woven fabric, knitted shawls and bags, hats made of indigenous materials, and burnay products. Some stores also flaunt intricate jewelry, Vigan woodcrafts, and trunks that imitate antique designs.
4. Feast on bagnet and other Ilocano delicacies
Ilocos is known for its native cuisine. A first-timer should try their signature dishes like pinakbet, the famous Vigan longganiza (garlic-flavored pork sausage), and the crunchy bagnet (pan-fried pork meat). The Vigan empanada --best eaten when dipped in vinegar-- is also a common favorite, which you can find in several stalls along Plaza Burgos. And since the weather in Vigan is hotter than most parts of the Philippines, enjoying a refreshing Pinoy halo-halo and free wifi at Max’s Restaurant is just awesome. Some of my recommended places to eat are Cafe Leona (of the great Ilocano poet Leona Florentino) and Cafe Uno -- the first coffee shop in Vigan city serving hot and cold beverages, desserts, pasta and sandwiches.
5. Enjoy a romantic stroll at night
A leisurely walk through Calle Crisologo is simply magical at night, especially with the golden colonial-style street lamps adding more to the 16th century ambience. There are also plenty of wooden benches (some decorated with wheels like that of a kalesa), which are perfect for quiet conversations, photo-ops, or simply for you to rest along the way.
6. Talk to the locals and listen to old talesHow did Vigan survive? How come this gracious capital still stands intact despite the war and trials of time? The locals say that Calle Crisologo is a “Street Spared for Love”. Story has it that during the later part of World War II, retreating Japanese troops would blaze any town before leaving so that American forces could not make use of them. However, a couple of Japanese officers found love and married local girls. So concerned were they for their families that they would bravely defy their orders to burn Vigan. Instead, they made a pact with the parish priest to protect their loved ones and they would leave the city intact. The Japanese officers may not have survived the war, but their undying love for their families saved this lovely town. And today, people are still being encouraged to protect the town’s heritage. You’d be impressed to learn that there are municipal ordinances specifying the historic center boundaries of the town where structures must be strictly conserved.
Indeed, Vigan is quite a lovely place to get lost in. But at the end of every road, you ask: How do I go back home? Unfortunately, there isn’t a direct flight yet from Vigan to Cebu. But a traveler has the option to go by bus or plane going to Manila, then fly to Cebu.
In our case, we rented a private vehicle going to Laoag International Airport, about 1 ½ hour drive from Vigan City, and took the daily flight to Manila via Philippine Airlines. There’s also another one via Cebu Pacific Air. But as we sat there at the departure lounge, anxious over yet another delayed flight by a couple of hours, I couldn’t help but wish that at the end of every brick road, we could just somehow borrow Dorothy’s ruby shoes, click three times and say “There’s no place like home”.
-- SunStar Weekend, February 11, 2011
