When you travel way up
north in the Philippines, two things will strike you: the unbelievable hotness
of the region, and the tangible presence of a dead president.
We were on a rented car
from Vigan, headed to Laoag to take our direct flight home to Cebu later that
night. The day was young and our driver/guide cheerfully offered to tour us
around Ilocos Norte before takeoff. We had just realized that, when in Ilocos,
driving around in an air-conditioned car isn’t such a bad idea since the world
outside always seems to be a few degrees hotter than we’re used to. And so, what
normally would take just an hour and a half drive stretched to a short day as
we explored popular hot spots along the way.
Marcos Museum and Mausoleum in Batac City
Here, you will find the
preserved body of the late President Ferdinand Marcos, still not buried. Slowly, I walked around the dim, solemn and
almost creepy mausoleum, each step prodded by curiosity. I grew up learning
about the atrocities during Marcos’ reign, associating his name with ‘Martial
Law’, ‘greed’ and ‘dictator’. But upon
finally looking at the wax-like body of this larger than life historical figure
of a man, laid out like a saint, my first and only thought was: he’s shorter than I imagined.
The rest of the museum
showcases memorabilia of the late president, from his stint in the armed forces
down to his presidency. Walking around, reading his brilliant letters and
looking at old cultural pieces and iconic photographs -- you can feel the love
and loyalty of the people for him and his family. What does it say about Marcos
– a man who’s lost a nation’s trust, denied a hero’s burial, and yet still
revered in his hometown? It was strange. This was not a world I knew.
Paoay Church
Under the relentless heat
of the sun, we proceeded to Paoay, Ilocos Norte where the familiar
postcard-perfect San Agustin Church, also known as the Paoay Church, stands in
all its centuries-old Spanish-era glory. This beautiful structure is listed as
one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. I could hear wedding bells all the way across
the dry sprawling grounds. Accompanied by my apprehensive afternoon shadow, I
walked then stopped in the middle of the brick pathway, staring up at this
massive church and wondering if dreams of forever could be burned by the sun.
Malacañang of the North
For a welcome glimpse of
clear blue waters, we drove along the legendary Paoay Lake. Along its lazy
shores, you’ll find the official residence-turned-museum of the late President
Marcos. The Malacañang of the North, or
what the Ilokanos endearingly call Malacañang ti Amianan, is said to be a
"birthday gift" of then First Lady Imelda Marcos to her husband on
his 60th birthday. I fell in love with its timeless architecture -- wide open
spaces, hard wooden floors, grand balcony and long capiz-windowed hallways
overlooking the lake. From its elegant rooms to Spanish inspired furniture and
grand spiral staircase – everything is a work of art. I went around feeling like a brush stroke in
a beautiful painting.
Museo Ilocos Norte & The Sinking Bell Tower in
Laoag
The memorabilia in Museo
Ilocos Norte and the town’s progress in the face of its Sinking Bell Tower are
testaments to the Ilokanos’ resilience and hard work. The Museo in Laoag is
rich with lessons from the past – how the people persevered and turned dry
lands to their advantage, toiling despite the beating of the sun, and perhaps,
political controversy. It’s admirable how they have survived and seem to have
remained unified under one leadership.
At the wall of Marcos
Museum in Batac, you will find this prayer, which reads in part:
“Cleanse us of our anger,
our bitterness, and our recriminations of the past; spare us the doubts and
anxieties of the present; and purify us for our sacrifice so that we may raise
a people who will be their own strength today, and their own warranty against
the future.” (by Ferdinand E. Marcos, 1917-1989)
Having visited Ilocos
Norte, I realize that how we look at people and the past will always be colored
by our present. Somehow, in between shades of gray, we find our own version of
the truth. I don’t know about you, but like the photographs I’ve taken, my
memories of Ilocos Norte will always be in sepia.
xoxoxo
- Sunstar Weekend, October 27, 2012
