Tripping Mindanao

"He set about writing his first major work by taking himself to new places where fresh scenery would stimulate his senses." -- in reference to John Keats (Who, by the way, looks absolutely dreamy on his book cover)

It was perhaps the most depressing two weeks of my life when – like an angel from heaven- my all-time favorite travel buddy Ann offered me a way out of Cebu… at least for awhile. Sometimes in life, when you can’t see the road in front of you, it pays to have a friend point – nah, drag you—in the right direction.

I got no job and I’m almost broke, I told her, all too ready to decline her invitation to visit her down south. But like a deaf woman, she overruled my pitiful objections. So I cashed in the last money I had in the bank and bought a one-way ticket to Mindanao. How I’ll eat or where I’ll go, "bahala na lang si Lord." I just wanted to get out. That’s how desperate I was.

First Stop: Dipolog

"I feel more and more every day, as my imagination strengthens, that I do not live in this world alone but in a thousand worlds." -- John Keats

It takes about 20 minutes via tricycle to reach Dipolog from the Dapitan port. The two are called twin cities, by the way. Coming from a bustling city like Cebu, I kept wondering over and over, "where on earth are the people?" Though bigger than Dapitan, most of Dipolog’s streets were still quiet, disturbed only by the occasional tricycles that pass along. It took me about three days before I saw people my own age. Really.

There are no taxis and the few people there are – apparently lost in this other world—generally ignore you. But though it is not a friendly place, like Dapitan, it is a peaceful one.

It was in Dipolog where I found the cheapest pension house in all my travels so far, courtesy of Ann of course -- smart agent of Smart Communications whose area includes Zamboanga del Norte. Green Mellow Court only charges P120 per person, P80 if you can live without the TV. So what if the room was no bigger than my own at home? So what if it was so hot that you feel like drowning in your own sweat from time to time? So what if the ceiling fan wouldn’t rotate and faced only one direction? At least it was decent and clean. And you know what I found out? Eventually, you get used to it. Isn’t it funny how the little inconveniences just fade away when you’re nursing a greater one in your heart?

Second Stop: Dapitan

If you’re traveling hoping to meet some cute guys in some distant island, then Zamboanga del Norte is certainly not the place to be. But I went ahead and fell in love anyway, at least with Dapitan.

It takes 6 hours to get there via Oceanjet. Once on the coastal road, I saw unusual rock formations to my left and the quiet blue sea to my right – a quiet harbor for troubled souls, I thought. The roads are dotted by charming Spanish-styled houses. Apparently, the land area is so vast they don’t compete for space at all.

Dakak

On my second day, I had the privilege of being invited to the Fun Familia outing of Smart Communications Dipolog in Dakak.

Dakak, I just found out, is owned by Jalosjos—yeah, the controversial politico. Not only Dakak, but most of Zamboanga del Norte, apparently, so he must not be rich- but really filthy rich.

Dakak wasn’t as I expected. For one, it was farther than I thought. Located in Barangay Taguilon, Dapitan, it takes about an hour to reach there from Dipolog. Second, it was bigger than I imagined. Third, the sand was too fine to be true. Fourth, the staff was too unfriendly to be working at a resort.

But as always with Ann, the experience was a blast. While we have to walk for about 10 minutes and climb a hill to get to the cluster of cottages, our abode was charming. It was big and quiet and slightly overlooking. A perfect honeymoon spot, I thought. There I spent the night reading John Keats, my current travel book, and it was simply sensational. I’d hate to say orgasmic, though it was close ;p

And of course, there were the hunks and the hot babes by day, the endless pictorials, and the swimming sessions by the pool and the sea. Being partially enclosed by islets, the Dakak sea is so calm and clear I even saw one big fish swim right past me.

For our first night, we were treated to a cultural show where the girls danced the hula and the "pearly" dance and the men ate fire. It was unforgettable, just like our stay.

Rizal Shrine

"I am as happy as a Man can be… with the yearning passion I have for the beautiful, connected and made one with the ambition of my intellect." -- John Keats

Just by smelling the air of Dapitan, one can already sense the richness of its history. So though there was little time, I just had to drop by Dr. J.R.’s house, a man of intellect and passion.

And being there, I finally understood how Rizal could turn his back on a progressive life in Spain or Manila, and how he could have denied the Katipunan heroes his support for a bloody revolution and opted for more peaceful means. Dapitan, for me, just looks so serene that if I were to be exiled, I’d want it to be there too. It’s the needed breath of fresh air in a complicated life. And its beauty would inspire anyone to write. No wonder Rizal was so prolific too.

The Rizal shrine also gives testimony to his life as a doctor. It is said that he taught and treated in the various huts in the compound. His house was simple enough. Who needs more anyway when you’ve got a spectacular view of the bay, especially at sunset? The paints of his many girls were displayed, too. And, judging from his replica, he really is not that tall. It was so easy to hug him. Hehe. And studying his many faces on the wall, you’ve got to admit, he’s kinda cute. But the hairdo, man, I still maintain it’s a complete turn off.

Gloria de Dapitan

"However it may be, O for a Life of Sensations rather than of Thoughts! It is ‘a Vision in the form of Youth’, a Shadow of reality to come." -- John Keats

Zooming past Dapitan’s boulevard stretch from the Rizal shrine was such a thing of beauty that for once, I stopped thinking, and simply reveled in the sensation. As Keats said, already "Beauty is truth, truth beauty – that is all Ye know on earth, and all ye need to know."

My eyes feasted on the spectacular view of the sun’s rays dappling on the quiet blue sea. Pension houses interlaced with more Spanish- inspired structures. Before reaching the end of the stretch, there is this one place worth dropping by – the newly launched Gloria de Dapitan center. Boy, it was so amazing, you feel like you’re on foreign land. In the midst of such an old and traditional town, its screaming modernity is such a welcome respite. After going without a coffee shop for almost four days, I went delirious with joy when I finally saw one, Ann couldn’t help laughing. There were bars, an internet café, a classy shopping center, a gym, not to mention a circus complete with merry-go-rounds, ferris wheels, a castle and what-have-yous. Alright, I admit, while I hate it sometimes, I will always crave a remnant of city life wherever I go. The city will always be home for me.

But when you have the charm of old town in one hand and the convenience of a modern world on the other, what more could you ask for? As we rushed to catch the last bus for Ozamiz city, one thing kept running in my mind—yes, definitely, I’ll go back.

Next Stop: Ozamiz City

"She (Melancholy) dwells with Beauty- Beauty that must die" -- John Keats

As I write this, I am in Ozamiz City. They say this is the land of krooks. I dunno. Whatever.

Here we camped in Ann’s tiny computer-shop-cum-apartment. This place I’ll never forget for we had to fight at least five brave, crazy cockroaches to claim our right to be here. I dunno, it must be the lateness of the night, but I actually found it fun especially seeing us so brave when we’re both scared to death of the little bugs. We had no choice but to fight.

We dropped our bags amidst the printers and computers and slept on the floor. It really doesn’t matter where you are, does it, for as long as you are with the right companion. Halfway through Ann’s philosophical discourse on the malady of our love lives, I fell deeply into sleep. Morning came too soon.

This afternoon we ride for Iligan. I don’t know where I’ll sleep or find there, either. I’ve never been there. One thing I know, I’m not ready to go home yet. Besides, what for, anyway?