meeting mayon (part 2)

It's been said that Her Majesty, Mt. Mayon, only shows her full self to the pure of heart. It was our second day in Legazpi City and I was beginning to despair as, come early morning (when locals say she usually shows herself), cloud-covered Mayon still wasn't in the mood to grant audience to anyone. Okay then, maybe my heart is just not that pure, but after traveling all those miles, a lady can still hope.

Not giving up, my travel buddy Jan and I decided to try what Hollywood star Zac Efron did while visiting Albay about a year ago—the Mayon ATV Tour. We were inspired by the claim of Your Brother Travel & Tours, the pioneering and DOT-accredited ATV service provider in Legazpi, that the best way to fully appreciate and experience Mayon is to be bold and go on an adventure ride along its foothills-- the nearest allowable and “safe” zone for now, set by the volcano authorities.

So as early as 6 AM, Mr. Cyrel Francis Chan –Mayon trail guide and 6-year ATV jock and owner of Your Brother tours-- personally picked us up from the hotel to bring us to the ATV training grounds at Brgy. Pawa, Legazpi. The sky was overcast and yet, he was still cheerful and optimistic for us. You won’t regret it, he said.

I couldn’t help but comment how residents manage to stay so positive and happy despite the continuous threat of Mayon’s wrath. It is, after all, tagged as the most active volcano in the Philippines with about 48 recorded eruptions in 400 years. Just a day before, we visited the Cagsawa Ruins, survived by a lone convent’s belfry after what was reported to be the most lethal eruption in Mayon’s history, burying the whole town of Cagsawa and claiming the lives of around 1,200 locals in February 1814. 

Aren't people living here ever afraid of Mayon’s deadly tantrums? Well, as they see it, Mr. Chan said, it’s just the way of life. They’ve learned to go with the flow. When Mayon blows her top, of course, they try to get out of the way, seeking shelter in evacuation centers. But when she’s done, they always come back. Mt. Mayon, for better or worse, is their home. Then Mr. Chan shared this philosophy: one thing people in Albay learn to live by is that, for every disaster you survive, something good is bound to happen.

Leaving us with that thought, we suited up for the ATV ride of a lifetime. We were to embark on a 9-kilometer trail to Base 1 Camp, where a landmark lava wall stands. It was formed by a 6-kilometer spill from the volcano’s crater during Mayon’s 2006 eruption. You can see this black strip running at the center, even from the city.

We followed the trail along the rocky foothills. As we passed by boulders, black soils, and lava rocks amid small rivers, muddy floors and stubborn trees, I pondered on what Mr. Chan said. I considered Mayon’s wrath and her pain. But more interestingly so, I also began to see for myself evidence of her atonement.

 

As product of Mayon's eruptions, the land yields rich vegetation. You will see green fields and small farms built by the charming villagers, who will wave and cheer you on as you pass by. Lava rocks are quarried for free by the locals to build structures or improve livelihood. They have springs, rivers and water buffaloes. And then, I realize, Mayon also generates enough publicity- be it good or bad, to boost domestic tourism.

Braving the lava wall, we climbed and reached the lava bed-turned-helipad, where we were rewarded with a breathtaking 360 view of the Albay Gulf and city. I gazed up at Her Majesty, still partly covered by clouds -- so beautiful yet deadly. I wondered, who are you, Mayon? Are you friend or foe? Provider or destroyer? One thing for sure, I haven't known anyone quite like her.

I would have wanted to interview the lady and get some answers but, at that point I began to accept that perhaps, I wasn’t meant to see all of her. I decided not to push it. As a woman, I was beginning to understand her.

I considered what burden she carries. What is it like to be so perfect all the time? Or when your family’s livelihood somewhat hinges on your stardom? Just like a woman in high heels told to stand still forever as the whole world clicks on and immortalizes your perfection -- in her shoes, wouldn’t you be impatient, angry or a diva, too? She couldn’t even cry in private without the whole world watching. She scarred her perfect cone one day and she drew flak for it. No wonder she hides sometimes, don’t you think?

So I tell her, you do what you have to do, Your Majesty. I judge you no more. By nightfall, I went to sleep, simply grateful for the opportunity to get close.

But then, on my last day, something magical happened. I woke up to a clear view of Her Majesty. From my bedroom window, I could see her with nary a cloud to hide her slender tips, symmetrical body, and earthen robes highlighted in greens and browns. My jaw dropped. Simply amazing and perfect against a canvass of pale blue skies.

Then from a distance, I could see gentle steam coming out from her pointed tip. Looks like Mt. Mayon is preparing my coffee for breakfast. What a lady! Might as well get ready for that interview. Feeling blessed and humbled before such great beauty, I sent a prayer of thanks. Bless you, Legazpi City!

  

--Published SunStar Weekend, July 13, 2013

Meeting Mayon (part 1)

In recent months, the Philippines’ most active and most photographed volcano, Mt. Mayon, has been headlining the newsfeeds for the nth time. Very much like a controversial superstar, her latest story left the nation, and the rest of the world, both horrified and fascinated. In early May, you see, a few brave men tried to cross her boundaries and she didn’t like that one bit. Like a woman in rage, she spewed out ashes and rocks – a surprising eruption recorded to have lasted about 73 seconds – sending five climbers to their deaths and injuring seven others. I read the news with mixed emotions. My heart went out to the men, but they were, after all, warned against getting too close to the lady.

The celebrated face of Albay province, local folklore refers to the volcano as Bulkang Mayon, after the legendary heroine Daragang Magayon, which in Bicol means "Beautiful Lady". Through the years, she has gained international acclaim as one of the world’s natural wonders due to her unique symmetric conical shape or almost “perfect cone”, formed through layers of lava flows from past eruptions and erosions. Mt. Mayon, as you may very well know by now, is also gossiped far and wide due to her fiery temper, having reportedly erupted over 48 times in the past 400 years. 

So beautiful yet deadly. Both a national treasure and disaster. She’s all aloof and a snob and yet, so many people are waiting for her next breath. As I read more about her, the more curious I become. Given Mt. Mayon’s very unpredictable nature, I wonder, how long will she last? Will she be able to sustain what no woman ever could— ageless beauty and perfection? How many more years before she decides to quit show business? At that moment, I decided, I have got to see her in person before she fades away.

A lot of people advised me against it. She's too angry, they say, she's not safe to be around. Some say she's a diva, throwing fits here and there at the slightest provocation. Comparing her to a moody queen, a few friends who’ve been there also warned that she may not even show herself upon visit, granting audiences only when she feels like it.

I refuse to give up on her though. Somewhere inside, she must have a heart. I know for a fact that cities are built around her. Why else would people flock and live with her if she doesn’t have one, right? So packed with much hope and faith, I flew to Legazpi City, hoping to meet and interview the lady.

 Even from the plane, one could see that Mt. Mayon wasn't in the mood to show herself that day. She covered herself in clouds and gathered in rain from the horizon. Local folks say that Mt. Mayon only shows herself to the pure of heart. I was beginning to suspect that perhaps, I don't have one.

Just give her time, said the all-knowing and friendly concierge of The Oriental Hotel Legazpi, which I found, has the best view of Mt. Mayon. Even covered in clouds, she looks majestic, rising over 8,000 ft. from the shores of the Gulf of Albay. The front desk clerk tipped that the best time to meet Mt. Mayon is at the break of dawn or sunrise, when one's heart isn't burdened yet with the day's worries. Meantime, she continued with a smile, why not enjoy the city first?

So off I went to explore Legazpi City. Like a fan, I researched on her body of work, history and people. I discovered that Mt. Mayon is home to eight cities and municipalities namely Daraga, Camalig, Guinobatan, Ligao City, Tabaco City, Malilipot, Santo Domingo, and Legazpi City – the capital of Albay. What is surprising, I find, is that even with her deadly tantrums, she is well-loved by her people. They are not at all afraid of her.

It was a joy to find the people peaceful and calm. The streets were surprisingly safe to walk on. They have a feast for every guest. I had a fine time shooting up my cholesterol to alarming levels sampling their famous bagnet, tinapa rice, pinangat, laing, Bicol Express, and DJC halo-halo. And then, with a devilish grin, the tour guide took us to First Colonial resto for a cup of sili ice cream. Ooh lala, this was one mean, hot ice cream. Like Mt. Mayon, it's either you love it or hate it. For me, both are true.

As the day progressed to twilight, I realized that Mt. Mayon is a tease as well. Though partly hidden by clouds, her majestic presence can be felt and seen anywhere you go. On high, she would give you glimpses of her perfect neck, her emerald skirts, slender waist, a pout and a smile here and there. If this was a trailer to the show, then I can't wait for the full feature in the morning.

The sun will come out tomorrow, I was certain. Till then, beautiful lady.  

--Published SunStar Weekend, July 6, 2013

thoughts on fire

Where there’s smoke, there’s fire. The thought flashed into my head as I was drying my hair in the bedroom. Before I could carelessly brush it off, I heard the shouts of warning, “Sunog! (Fire!)” With hair slightly dripping, I looked outside the window and there it was – a big ball of orange fire licking at trees and neighboring houses right across the street. I stood there for a moment, mesmerized by its passion – just like an angry woman spitting fire through the thick walls of her delinquent partner’s head.

The wind blew and the suffocating smell of smoke jolted me out of my reverie. The sight of flying embers sent signals to my hazy brain that this was for real and that I must act… fast. Even from across the street, I could feel the heat of the fire’s ire.

I shouted for everyone in the house, who I found, were already in panic. What to do? Call the firemen? I grabbed my cell phone and what the – I didn’t have the digits on my unit nor my mind. I know, I know… but I didn’t have time to chastise myself for this basic and serious mistake. Before I could panic even further, I heard the sweet sound of sirens and saw the Chinese brigade first to arrive on the scene. I promised myself then and there to list all emergency numbers and never take these for granted again.

What next, pack? But what to pack? What, pray tell, do you prioritize at a time like this? Finally, with my mind almost a blank, I settled for my phone and car keys with the sole thought of just getting everyone out in case the fire reaches us.

As I watched the volunteer firemen pour rain over the fire, I started calling loved ones to give myself something to do. My mobile sister asked to safe keep her work laptop.  There was no time to argue with her on the merits of backing up, so I backtracked and just grabbed it, deciding to save the lecture for later. My almost hysterical nephew asked to save ‘Ponsoy’, his favorite monkey toy, and ’Happy’, another stuffed toy, because “they’re important members of the family too.” I almost cursed but I threw these in the car as well anyway, remembering a time when my Barbie meant the whole world to me too. Our yaya secured her savings and medicine. I went back for my wallet with IDs, passport and other documents.

The fire razed about six houses. It was all the more sad because it was a good neighborhood and we grew up with most of these people.

Fortunately, the fire never did reach us. But the stuff loaded in the car gave us all something to think about what really mattered in our lives.

When we went back to the house, I took stock of what I left behind. I could feel the accusing eyes of my favorite clothes, shoes, gadgets, and books. And oh, did I really forget about my precious jewelry? Our family TV grunted in disappointment. I waited to feel chagrined, but mostly I was just relieved to be reminded of what it all boils down to – that for as long as your loved ones are safe, everything else are replaceable.

I started rearranging things and noted a few essentials – emergency numbers, flashlights, and an exit plan. I was secretly glad to realize that there are actually a lot of things I can live without. But for convenience’s sake, that same night, I started packing an emergency bag with a few basics. You know, just in case. 


--Published SunStar Weekend, June 1, 2013

Oh Baby, Baby

Over the holidays, I decided to check out what’s new in Philippine cinema and lined up for the annual Metro Manila Film Festival. Out of all the eight entries this year, two movies stood out – Thy Womb and One More Try.

Thy Womb, directed by Brillante Mendoza, left me feeling dazed and hollow. I was impressed by the rawness of its cinematic scenes and the standout acting of Nora Aunor as Shaleha -- a Badjao midwife in Tawi-Tawi struggling with the irony of her own infertility.  What I couldn’t reconcile with my reality though is the story of Shaleha trying to find her husband Bangas-An a new wife to fulfill his wish of having a child. She did it with such dedication, too, even at the risk of being cast aside. Whoa, was this pure selflessness, or just plain crazy or stupid? It boggles the mind to consider that in some parts of the world, this is acceptable, even a practical way of life.

Then there’s Star Cinema’s “One More Try”, a story of two couples turning their lives upside down to save a dying child.  Have you ever met a woman like Grace (Angel Locsin) who will sleep again with a man who hurt her, even at the risk of alienating the man who loves her, to save her child? Or have you ever been a wife like Jacqueline (Angelica Panganiban), consenting to lend your husband to another woman (vocally or not) because you feel guilty about not being able to bear him a child?

Both movie plots were quite raw and original – a testament to how far Philippine cinema has gone- and yet, for me, so crazy too they bordered on the ridiculous. But what if these actually happen in our own lives? What choices do we make? These movies make you wonder: Are you less of a woman if you can’t bear a child? Or will you have to give up everything to have a child?

I have a successful friend who’s been married for more than 5 years now and still with no baby. Everywhere we go, despite her loving marriage and other achievements, the inevitable question crops up, “So when are you having a baby?” I can only sympathize. I know it annoys her as much as it annoys me being asked, “When are you getting married?” Apparently women— single or married— just cannot hide from the pressures of society.

On a more personal level, I mused, am I ready to have a baby? Even as a 30-something, I find that is one question I still cannot answer with certainty.

I love babies, though. I love to cuddle them, put them to sleep or make them laugh. I am amazed by their brilliance and their ability to absorb new things and grow up so fast. I consider it a privilege to watch my baby nephew grow up to be an active 9-year-old boy. Up to this day, he still amazes us with his curious words and funny, even brilliant, answers.

But, like what every woman at some point asks herself -- do I want one now? Am I ready to be responsible for a delicate human life? To choose to be there when my work takes me elsewhere? I barely have time for myself now and current loved ones. There are still so many dreams to work through – will I not resent being tied down when that rare opportunity strikes? Can I give my baby the best life he/she deserves now?

It is not uncommon to find 30-something single and childless women in this city and age. Despite the flak from society, there are perks to being one –being able to travel light, to come and go as you please, to take chances without guilt. One time, over an after-movie pizza and beer, I asked a similar friend, “Will you give up your life now, your career and dreams just to have children?” Her answer: “If I have to give it all up, then maybe I don’t want children.” Perhaps, we are too selfish yet.  But as a woman, is it really so wrong to pursue dreams that don’t include children?

Just recently, while on the road, I asked my partner, “Do you want children?”He answered without a doubt, “Yes, always.” He shifted gears and teased, “We can have one now if you like.” I could feel the panic rising in my stomach. Am I ready? I swallowed. “What if I couldn’t give you one?” He was silent as he maneuvered through the city streets. I looked at the long, lonely road ahead. Is this it? Will I have to choose now? Like Shaleha, will I be deemed a single useless figure in society if I choose to be childless? Do I need to give him up? Or like Jacqueline, do I have to lend him to another woman if I don’t bear him children? Before my crazy thoughts could choke me, we reached an intersection. As the light turned red, he pressed on the brakes, gave me a light kiss on the head and looked into my eyes, “Then, we will be enough.”

My world settled. I can’t remember loving him more as in that moment. I guess, for some of us women, it’s not really about having a baby or not. It’s the knowing that, with or without, we are enough. 

--Published SunStar Weekend, January 5, 2013

Paintball Saturday Part 2: Let the Games Begin

As I crouched near the earth behind a distressed barrel, my gun pointed and ready to shoot, I realized that playing paintball is not for the fainthearted.

It was a hot Saturday afternoon and we were at the WEBOSS Extreme Grounds -- a new outdoor paintball facility at the Tarona Compound Holy Family Village 1 in Banilad -- playing Jungle Skirmish, Counter Strike and Capture The Flag. Before the game, we’ve already signed our waivers and been briefed by the paintball guide/referee on how to use the marker (gun), the safety rules and how the games are played. We were divided into two teams, each with a designated base. To be honest, I don’t really know much about the art of war games and strategy. I doubt my teammates did either.  We were all neophytes. But we understood enough that the point of the game is not to get hit and that once you’re marked, you lose.

First Try

As soon as we found our respective home bases in the netted field, the ref yelled “Game On!” I could feel the adrenaline, nerves and anticipation as I waited to hear the first shot. I froze. Like many other first-time players I imagine, I was convinced that if I so much as move my head or look beyond the barrel, I would be hit. After a few minutes though, I decided that waiting or not seeing was worse than getting hit. So I sneaked around and, when nobody fired, scrambled forward to another barrel and aimed. A thought came: “Hey, I work with these guys, I know them personally. How could you hit someone you know?” Then, out of nowhere, “splat!” I got hit in the hand. I didn’t even know where the shot came from. All I knew was that I was hit, and that it didn't hurt that much to get hit after all. I was relieved, grateful even, for that first shot. The initial jitters were gone and I felt this time, I was ready to compete.

Counter Strike

The second game is similar to counterstrike – once you’re hit, you have to go back to your base and start all over until you run out of balls. The team with the lesser hits wins. At that point, I didn’t even think much about winning. I just wanted to be quick, sharp and brave enough like the boys. I wanted to be able to fight any offensive player who hit me and not just wait for the boys to defend me. As they say, “No guts, no glory.” Now I know it couldn’t be truer in the field. And I tell you, a girl with a mission is quite powerful. Without purpose -- you’re weak, you’re dead. I realize, too, that being hit ain’t so bad – it just gives you a reason to fight. By the end of the game, I was the last one standing. The ref sounded almost surprised when he said “Good job!” Lucky break? I guess, I was just annoyed enough to be hit again dead center on my face mask. 

End Game

By the time we played “Capture the Flag”, everyone was paint-splattered and already falling in love with this unconventional shooting sport. Being fast-paced and action-packed, not only do you get to test your speed, strategy and aim, you also get to live out the drama of action movies. You run, hide, hit, run hide, then hit again. Like love and heartbreak, paintball teaches you the value of moving and moving on.

Perhaps, fear of pain is one of the biggest factors stopping people from trying out paintball. Once you get into the game, though, you’ll find that most of your fear is just in the mind. Paintball is a fun and awesome experience if you give it a chance. I did. I survived. And, as I walked off the field-- breathless, flushed and slightly battle-scarred, I’ve never felt more alive. Paintball Saturday was one exciting experience I know I’m not likely to forget. Make it yours, too. Game? 

-- Published SunStar Weekend, November 17, 2012