Sunday, July 14, 2013

Meeting Mayon (part 1)


In recent months, the Philippines’ most active and most photographed volcano, Mt. Mayon, has been headlining the newsfeeds for the nth time. Very much like a controversial superstar, her latest story left the nation, and the rest of the world, both horrified and fascinated. In early May, you see, a few brave men tried to cross her boundaries and she didn’t like that one bit. Like a woman in rage, she spewed out ashes and rocks – a surprising eruption recorded to have lasted about 73 seconds – sending five climbers to their deaths and injuring seven others. I read the news with mixed emotions. My heart went out to the men, but they were, after all, warned against getting too close to the lady.

The celebrated face of Albay province, local folklore refers to the volcano as Bulkang Mayon, after the legendary heroine Daragang Magayon, which in Bicol means "Beautiful Lady". Through the years, she has gained international acclaim as one of the world’s natural wonders due to her unique symmetric conical shape or almost “perfect cone”, formed through layers of lava flows from past eruptions and erosions. Mt. Mayon, as you may very well know by now, is also gossiped far and wide due to her fiery temper, having reportedly erupted over 48 times in the past 400 years. 

So beautiful yet deadly. Both a national treasure and disaster. She’s all aloof and a snob and yet, so many people are waiting for her next breath. As I read more about her, the more curious I become. Given Mt. Mayon’s very unpredictable nature, I wonder, how long will she last? Will she be able to sustain what no woman ever could— ageless beauty and perfection? How many more years before she decides to quit show business? At that moment, I decided, I have got to see her in person before she fades away.

A lot of people advised me against it. She's too angry, they say, she's not safe to be around. Some say she's a diva, throwing fits here and there at the slightest provocation. Comparing her to a moody queen, a few friends who’ve been there also warned that she may not even show herself upon visit, granting audiences only when she feels like it.

I refuse to give up on her though. Somewhere inside, she must have a heart. I know for a fact that cities are built around her. Why else would people flock and live with her if she doesn’t have one, right? So packed with much hope and faith, I flew to Legazpi City, hoping to meet and interview the lady.


 Even from the plane, one could see that Mt. Mayon wasn't in the mood to show herself that day. She covered herself in clouds and gathered in rain from the horizon. Local folks say that Mt. Mayon only shows herself to the pure of heart. I was beginning to suspect that perhaps, I don't have one.

Just give her time, said the all-knowing and friendly concierge of The Oriental Hotel Legazpi, which I found, has the best view of Mt. Mayon. Even covered in clouds, she looks majestic, rising over 8,000 ft. from the shores of the Gulf of Albay. The front desk clerk tipped that the best time to meet Mt. Mayon is at the break of dawn or sunrise, when one's heart isn't burdened yet with the day's worries. Meantime, she continued with a smile, why not enjoy the city first?

So off I went to explore Legazpi City. Like a fan, I researched on her body of work, history and people. I discovered that Mt. Mayon is home to eight cities and municipalities namely Daraga, Camalig, Guinobatan, Ligao City, Tabaco City, Malilipot, Santo Domingo, and Legazpi City – the capital of Albay. What is surprising, I find, is that even with her deadly tantrums, she is well-loved by her people. They are not at all afraid of her.

It was a joy to find the people peaceful and calm. The streets were surprisingly safe to walk on. They have a feast for every guest. I had a fine time shooting up my cholesterol to alarming levels sampling their famous bagnet, tinapa rice, pinangat, laing, Bicol Express, and DJC halo-halo. And then, with a devilish grin, the tour guide took us to First Colonial resto for a cup of sili ice cream. Ooh lala, this was one mean, hot ice cream. Like Mt. Mayon, it's either you love it or hate it. For me, both are true.

As the day progressed to twilight, I realized that Mt. Mayon is a tease as well. Though partly hidden by clouds, her majestic presence can be felt and seen anywhere you go. On high, she would give you glimpses of her perfect neck, her emerald skirts, slender waist, a pout and a smile here and there. If this was a trailer to the show, then I can't wait for the full feature in the morning.

The sun will come out tomorrow, I was certain. Till then, beautiful lady.  


--Published SunStar Weekend, July 6, 2013

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