meeting mayon (part 2)

It's been said that Her Majesty, Mt. Mayon, only shows her full self to the pure of heart. It was our second day in Legazpi City and I was beginning to despair as, come early morning (when locals say she usually shows herself), cloud-covered Mayon still wasn't in the mood to grant audience to anyone. Okay then, maybe my heart is just not that pure, but after traveling all those miles, a lady can still hope.

Not giving up, my travel buddy Jan and I decided to try what Hollywood star Zac Efron did while visiting Albay about a year ago—the Mayon ATV Tour. We were inspired by the claim of Your Brother Travel & Tours, the pioneering and DOT-accredited ATV service provider in Legazpi, that the best way to fully appreciate and experience Mayon is to be bold and go on an adventure ride along its foothills-- the nearest allowable and “safe” zone for now, set by the volcano authorities.

So as early as 6 AM, Mr. Cyrel Francis Chan –Mayon trail guide and 6-year ATV jock and owner of Your Brother tours-- personally picked us up from the hotel to bring us to the ATV training grounds at Brgy. Pawa, Legazpi. The sky was overcast and yet, he was still cheerful and optimistic for us. You won’t regret it, he said.

I couldn’t help but comment how residents manage to stay so positive and happy despite the continuous threat of Mayon’s wrath. It is, after all, tagged as the most active volcano in the Philippines with about 48 recorded eruptions in 400 years. Just a day before, we visited the Cagsawa Ruins, survived by a lone convent’s belfry after what was reported to be the most lethal eruption in Mayon’s history, burying the whole town of Cagsawa and claiming the lives of around 1,200 locals in February 1814. 

Aren't people living here ever afraid of Mayon’s deadly tantrums? Well, as they see it, Mr. Chan said, it’s just the way of life. They’ve learned to go with the flow. When Mayon blows her top, of course, they try to get out of the way, seeking shelter in evacuation centers. But when she’s done, they always come back. Mt. Mayon, for better or worse, is their home. Then Mr. Chan shared this philosophy: one thing people in Albay learn to live by is that, for every disaster you survive, something good is bound to happen.

Leaving us with that thought, we suited up for the ATV ride of a lifetime. We were to embark on a 9-kilometer trail to Base 1 Camp, where a landmark lava wall stands. It was formed by a 6-kilometer spill from the volcano’s crater during Mayon’s 2006 eruption. You can see this black strip running at the center, even from the city.

We followed the trail along the rocky foothills. As we passed by boulders, black soils, and lava rocks amid small rivers, muddy floors and stubborn trees, I pondered on what Mr. Chan said. I considered Mayon’s wrath and her pain. But more interestingly so, I also began to see for myself evidence of her atonement.

 

As product of Mayon's eruptions, the land yields rich vegetation. You will see green fields and small farms built by the charming villagers, who will wave and cheer you on as you pass by. Lava rocks are quarried for free by the locals to build structures or improve livelihood. They have springs, rivers and water buffaloes. And then, I realize, Mayon also generates enough publicity- be it good or bad, to boost domestic tourism.

Braving the lava wall, we climbed and reached the lava bed-turned-helipad, where we were rewarded with a breathtaking 360 view of the Albay Gulf and city. I gazed up at Her Majesty, still partly covered by clouds -- so beautiful yet deadly. I wondered, who are you, Mayon? Are you friend or foe? Provider or destroyer? One thing for sure, I haven't known anyone quite like her.

I would have wanted to interview the lady and get some answers but, at that point I began to accept that perhaps, I wasn’t meant to see all of her. I decided not to push it. As a woman, I was beginning to understand her.

I considered what burden she carries. What is it like to be so perfect all the time? Or when your family’s livelihood somewhat hinges on your stardom? Just like a woman in high heels told to stand still forever as the whole world clicks on and immortalizes your perfection -- in her shoes, wouldn’t you be impatient, angry or a diva, too? She couldn’t even cry in private without the whole world watching. She scarred her perfect cone one day and she drew flak for it. No wonder she hides sometimes, don’t you think?

So I tell her, you do what you have to do, Your Majesty. I judge you no more. By nightfall, I went to sleep, simply grateful for the opportunity to get close.

But then, on my last day, something magical happened. I woke up to a clear view of Her Majesty. From my bedroom window, I could see her with nary a cloud to hide her slender tips, symmetrical body, and earthen robes highlighted in greens and browns. My jaw dropped. Simply amazing and perfect against a canvass of pale blue skies.

Then from a distance, I could see gentle steam coming out from her pointed tip. Looks like Mt. Mayon is preparing my coffee for breakfast. What a lady! Might as well get ready for that interview. Feeling blessed and humbled before such great beauty, I sent a prayer of thanks. Bless you, Legazpi City!

  

--Published SunStar Weekend, July 13, 2013

Meeting Mayon (part 1)

In recent months, the Philippines’ most active and most photographed volcano, Mt. Mayon, has been headlining the newsfeeds for the nth time. Very much like a controversial superstar, her latest story left the nation, and the rest of the world, both horrified and fascinated. In early May, you see, a few brave men tried to cross her boundaries and she didn’t like that one bit. Like a woman in rage, she spewed out ashes and rocks – a surprising eruption recorded to have lasted about 73 seconds – sending five climbers to their deaths and injuring seven others. I read the news with mixed emotions. My heart went out to the men, but they were, after all, warned against getting too close to the lady.

The celebrated face of Albay province, local folklore refers to the volcano as Bulkang Mayon, after the legendary heroine Daragang Magayon, which in Bicol means "Beautiful Lady". Through the years, she has gained international acclaim as one of the world’s natural wonders due to her unique symmetric conical shape or almost “perfect cone”, formed through layers of lava flows from past eruptions and erosions. Mt. Mayon, as you may very well know by now, is also gossiped far and wide due to her fiery temper, having reportedly erupted over 48 times in the past 400 years. 

So beautiful yet deadly. Both a national treasure and disaster. She’s all aloof and a snob and yet, so many people are waiting for her next breath. As I read more about her, the more curious I become. Given Mt. Mayon’s very unpredictable nature, I wonder, how long will she last? Will she be able to sustain what no woman ever could— ageless beauty and perfection? How many more years before she decides to quit show business? At that moment, I decided, I have got to see her in person before she fades away.

A lot of people advised me against it. She's too angry, they say, she's not safe to be around. Some say she's a diva, throwing fits here and there at the slightest provocation. Comparing her to a moody queen, a few friends who’ve been there also warned that she may not even show herself upon visit, granting audiences only when she feels like it.

I refuse to give up on her though. Somewhere inside, she must have a heart. I know for a fact that cities are built around her. Why else would people flock and live with her if she doesn’t have one, right? So packed with much hope and faith, I flew to Legazpi City, hoping to meet and interview the lady.

 Even from the plane, one could see that Mt. Mayon wasn't in the mood to show herself that day. She covered herself in clouds and gathered in rain from the horizon. Local folks say that Mt. Mayon only shows herself to the pure of heart. I was beginning to suspect that perhaps, I don't have one.

Just give her time, said the all-knowing and friendly concierge of The Oriental Hotel Legazpi, which I found, has the best view of Mt. Mayon. Even covered in clouds, she looks majestic, rising over 8,000 ft. from the shores of the Gulf of Albay. The front desk clerk tipped that the best time to meet Mt. Mayon is at the break of dawn or sunrise, when one's heart isn't burdened yet with the day's worries. Meantime, she continued with a smile, why not enjoy the city first?

So off I went to explore Legazpi City. Like a fan, I researched on her body of work, history and people. I discovered that Mt. Mayon is home to eight cities and municipalities namely Daraga, Camalig, Guinobatan, Ligao City, Tabaco City, Malilipot, Santo Domingo, and Legazpi City – the capital of Albay. What is surprising, I find, is that even with her deadly tantrums, she is well-loved by her people. They are not at all afraid of her.

It was a joy to find the people peaceful and calm. The streets were surprisingly safe to walk on. They have a feast for every guest. I had a fine time shooting up my cholesterol to alarming levels sampling their famous bagnet, tinapa rice, pinangat, laing, Bicol Express, and DJC halo-halo. And then, with a devilish grin, the tour guide took us to First Colonial resto for a cup of sili ice cream. Ooh lala, this was one mean, hot ice cream. Like Mt. Mayon, it's either you love it or hate it. For me, both are true.

As the day progressed to twilight, I realized that Mt. Mayon is a tease as well. Though partly hidden by clouds, her majestic presence can be felt and seen anywhere you go. On high, she would give you glimpses of her perfect neck, her emerald skirts, slender waist, a pout and a smile here and there. If this was a trailer to the show, then I can't wait for the full feature in the morning.

The sun will come out tomorrow, I was certain. Till then, beautiful lady.  

--Published SunStar Weekend, July 6, 2013